This Cost Lives

A million praises to the first reader who can tell us what the hell "Quantum Of Solace" means.

In this latest installment of Bond, Daniel Craig has traded in his Brioni suits from Casino Royale for Tom Ford menswear.

The Business Of Buffoonery

Men’s fashion shows often appear to be nothing more than wasteful, self-indulgent exercises to see which designer can most thoroughly emasculate and debase the male image under the guise of visionary genius.

The shows, however, always carry within them themes that apply to average Joe’s in very meaningful ways.

In Milan and now Paris this season, the focus has been on accessories -- shoes, belts, scarves... pink elephant hats -- which actually serves quite a practical purpose amid soaring gas prices and troubled economies:

“A small purchase can give a fillip to a wardrobe, if strapped-for-cash men pass on a new suit,” is how the International Herald Tribune interpreted designer Paul Smith’s thoughts on the matter.

[Selectism]

Be Someone Else

That's right, with the pop of a single fast-dissolving tablet, YOU can become the man simultaneously transforming the DNA of hip-hop, fashion, and live media. [LVHRD]

Business Casual

Tuesday and Wednesday only, designers like James Kendi and Mary Ping are coming together for a 60%-off sample sale on the Lower East Side. Of particular note, Kendi’s famed ties are down from $50 to $30. [Refinery29]

Oh, and in case you're wondering, skinny ties are still in, but not to the exclusion of larger ones. It all depends on your look, your dimensions, and the cut of your shirt and jacket.

Dispatch Gallery - 127 Henry St between Pike and Rutgers - 212-227-2783 - Map

I Like Barney's In June...

... How about You?

The Warehouse sale isn't until August, but, for the next week, the men’s designer department at Barney’s -- i.e., its third floor -- is taking a full 75% off all spring/summer ’08. That spells Paul Smith shirts for just over $100, and Jil Sander blazers for less than $300. [Racked]

Barney’s - 660 Madison Ave between 60th & 61st - 212-826-8900 - Map

The Other Sean

A tipster over at Racked claims that menswear boutique Sean is moving from Thompson to Prince come August. [Racked]

Translation: Clearance sale.

Sean is New York’s de facto outlet for Emile Lafaurie -- a modestly-priced French version of Ralph Lauren. We’ve purchased a number of Lafaurie’s pieces over the years for their quality make and subtly refined color tones. And the stuff holds up.

We'll keep you posted on the sale.

Sean - 132 Thompson St between West Houston & Prince - 212-598-5980 - Map
Sean - 224 Columbus Ave between 70th & 71st - 212-769-1489 - Map

Perfect Storm

The Beggar STRONGLY suggests getting your asses over to the Meatpacking District where two of the illest and most reasonably priced labels in New York JUST kicked off their summer sales.

• For the next month, British label Buckler is taking 30% off well made nightlife-ready jackets, vests, T’s, shorts and pants.

Buckler - 13 Gansevoort St between West 13th & Hudson - 212-255-1596 - Map

(Pay close attention to the 4th jacket out on the runway. A Buckler saleswoman just told it’s appearing in next month’s GQ. More importantly, the thing fits like a glove, looks very well constructed, and is now on sale for about $200. Un-fucking-beatable. Go grab one before they run out.)
Buckler by Andrew Buckler Spring 08 Fashion Show


• Then, right around the corner, Y-3 -- the hugely successful sportswear collaboration between Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas -- is taking 30% off equally-nightlife-ready kicks, T’s, jackets, shorts and pants.

Y-3 - 317 W 13th St between 8th & Hudson - 917-546-8677 - Map

Seize The Deal

Some guys reserve flip-flops for the water. Others keep them on from April to September. It's best to find a middle ground based on your work setting, and the degree to which your toes resemble eagles' talons. For what it's worth, there is an increasingly vocal constituency calling for men to take the footwear highroad in the warmer months. But, for better or worse, all Saturday, Old Navy is selling flip-flops for $1.

Old Navy - 150 W 34th St between 6th & 7th - 212-594-0049 - Map
Old Navy - 503 Broadway between Spring & Broome - 212-226-0838 - Map
Old Navy - 610 Ave at 18th - 212-645-0663 - Map

Walk It Off

Until the end of next week, Prada is taking 45% off everything except luggage and top-shelf shoes. There's still plenty of lesser shoes and spring/summer '08, a store clerk tells us.

BEWARE: Even on sale, Prada suits and blazers are a SHIT investment:

Simply put, the proper way to construct a suit is by stitching the "canvas" to the outer fabric. Prada glues these pieces together, which leads to a stiff jacket, and in due time irreparable bubbling up of the fabric from the canvas. If you want to see bubbling for yourself, ask to see a Prada jacket at any resale store in the city. It's not pretty.

Prada - 841 Madison Ave between 69th & 70th - 212-327-4200 - Map
Prada - 724 5th Ave at 56th - 212-664-0010 - Map
Prada Soho - 575 Broadway at Prince - 212-334-8888 - Map

Rack 'Em Up

Trusty Will over at A Suitable Wardrobe tells us what passes these days for a suitable wardrobe, and just how much you should be prepared to spend on one:

I frequently advise clients to budget the acquisition of four articles of tailored clothing and two pairs of shoes each year, plus 25%-33% for accessories. The client's total budget determines how much can be spent on each item. So, for example, a bit more than $25,000 annually buys bespoke from Savile Row or Naples. Half that amount buys Hong Kong bespoke and MTO shoes, or $8,000 buys good quality ready to wear (call it Brooks Brothers and Alden).

Obviously the words "sale," "resale," and "Barney's-Warehouse-Sale" are not part of Will's vocabulary. Not that we begrudge him that.

[A Suitable Wardrobe]

The Wrinkle Test

In case you missed it, The Wall Street Journal recently subjected suits across a range of price-points to a vigorous quality test. [Click images to read the fine print]

Key takeaway: Donald Trump's name is worth dick.

Rein It In

And the "Nays" have it: Deep-V T's have officially been ruled out-of-bounds.

[h(y)r]

Fuck It

Soho is presently home to several blowout summer sales on labels like Oliver Spencer, Duckie Brown, and Gilded Age. All first-rate stuff.

• Today and Friday only, Williamson Showroom is taking up to 70% off those and other designers.

119 Mercer St between Prince & Spring - Loft 2S - 212-226-5507 - Map

• Also, Today through Sunday, Openhouse Gallery is hosting an event with up to 80% off labels like The Smooth Company.

Openhouse Gallery - 201 Mulberry St between Kenmare & Spring - Map

[Racked]

Urban Camouflage

At least until the end of the month, two solid Chelsea boutiques are in full reduction mode:

• Behavior just upped its spring/summer sale from 30% to 50% off most stock.

Behavior - 231 W 19th St between 7th & 8th - 212-352-8380 - Map

• Farther west, Camouflage is still hangin’ in at the 25-30% range.

Camouflage - 139 8th Ave at 17th - 212-691-1750 - Map

The Final Countdown!

This bit of magnificence is the only fitting way to celebrate the news: Arrested Development is on its way to the big screen! [HuffPo]

Hipsters Have Feelings, Too

From Thursday to Saturday, hipster fashion collective United Bamboo is taking 30-90% off spring/summer ’08, along with previous collections.

United Bamboo - 217 Centre St nr Grand - 6th fl - 212-925-3311 - Map

Into The Wild

• Today and Thursday only, famed luxury safari clothier F.M. Allen is taking 50-80% off all clothing, accessories, and "bush luggage." We’re talking less than $300 for an extremely high-quality cashmere split neck sweater.

F.M. Allen - 960 Madison Ave between 75th & 76th - 2nd fl - 212-737-4374 - Map

• Until the end of the month, Helmut Lang is taking 60% off everything in stock... but a store rep just told me supplies are already dwindling.

Helmut Lang Meat Packing - 819 Washington St at Gansevoort - 212-242-3240 - Map

"Tell Mr. Kazoo We Had A Blast"

Cool Milan

In these photos, The Sartorialist skillfully captures a spirit of unwavering composure at a time of year when most people throw in the towel on style. With a few adjustments to material and cut, these chaps rise above the elements to appear perfectly at home in the heat. For the rest of the summer, any one of these looks is pure gold.

For more of The Sartorialist's pictures from Milan, click-through.

Cirque Du Spring '09

NY Mag has full coverage of the most comical looks and trends for spring '09 presently on display in Milan.

Haberdashery

Through July 4^th, fine menswear mecca Paul Stuart is taking 30-40% off suits, sports coats, shoes, sportswear, and "men’s furnishings" -- That's pocket squares and belts to you and me.

Paul Stuart - 10 E 45th St between 5th & Madison - 212-682-0320 - Map

Maximum Contrast

GQ demonstrates how to walk the fine line between white worn right and hospital orderly.

Rules for white: No white shoes, and pair with black or other neutral colors.

In that spirit, Thursday through Saturday, Rubin Chapelle is taking up to 70% off its minimalist (white) men’s jeans.

410 W 14th St between Ninth Ave and Washington - 212-647-8636

Croc

No, that’s not a picture of Pharrell holding his wife’s purse while she browses the racks at the mall. That’s his own custom made purple Hermès bag on the cover of Paper Magazine’s June/July issue. [HS]

Could we (pause) be witnessing the birth of a new era in men’s accessories? No.

Still, though, let the man plead his case for purple croc:

The Tailor

Martin the Tailor from Ed David on Vimeo.

Racked today brought our attention to this inspiring video of the renowned Bushwick-based tailor Martin Greenfield.

To see what goes into the making of a great suit, fast-forward to about 3:30…but then you’ll miss the part where Greenfield tells Bill Clinton to get his dressing together.

Fresh

• Tuesday through Friday, La Perla is taking up to 75% off fresh drawers, sleepwear, and lingerie.

260 Fifth Ave between 28th & 29th -212-725-5400 - Map

• Also Tuesday through Friday, S.O.S. Sample Sales is taking 40-80% off denim and other items from brands like Diesel, True Religion, and Joe's Jeans. The locale isn’t for the faint of heart, but if you’re already in the area, go for it.

264 W 40th St between Seventh and Eighth - Map

Fair Warning

Banana Republic has compiled a list of things that it feels you'll need to survive the coming months:

• $50 madras plaid shorts? Yes.
• $350 pebbled leather duffle made by Banana Republic? No.

Swing Low

Through July 6, Brooks Brothers is taking 25-40% off just about everything.

I spied:
• Linen stripe sports coats down from $400 to $240
• Any three dress shirts for $159
• Two-button classic navy blazers down from $525 to $395
• Suede captoe shoe’s from $470 to $350
• Floating medallion whole-cut shoe’s from $500 to $375

Brooks Brothers - 1934 Broadway at 65th - 212-362-2374 - Map
Brooks Brothers - 666 5th Ave between 52nd & 53rd - 212-261-9440 -Map
Brooks Brothers - 346 Madison Ave at 44th - 212-682-8800 - Map
Brooks Brothers Wall Street - 1 Liberty Pl at Liberty St - 212-267-2400 - Map

Personal Shopper

A 25-year-old budding talent manager just challenged me to find a modern take on the traditional men’s blazer for about $200. Check this out, Julian.

Online and in stores, Diesel’s spring/summer gear is now being marked down by 30%+. That includes denim, shorts, T’s, jackets, knits, belts, and shoes.

Diesel - 770 Lexington Ave between 60th & 61st -212-755-9200 - Map
Diesel - 1 Union Sq W at 14th St - 646-336-8552 - Map
Diesel Stylelab - 416 W Broadway between Prince & Spring - 212-343-0979 - Map

Hockneyed

Paul Smith's sparingly-striped spring/summer ’08 is now 30% off. Online and in stores, get it while it's hot or hold out for further reductions in the coming weeks.

David Hockney has perhaps become overused as a muse for designers like Smith. But, that doesn’t take away from the genius of either man’s work. In fact, there’s an unstructured muted-teal linen jacket calling our name at Paul Smith… Then we're heading over to Christie’s for a Hockney.

Right now:

• Men’s formal shirts marketed down from $255 to $180
• Men’s jeans down from $215 to $150
• ‘Chen’ gentlemen’s off-white oxford shoes down from $420 to $295

Paul Smith - 108 Fifth Ave at 16th - 212-627-9770 - Map
Paul Smith - 142 Greene St between W Houston & Prince - 646 613 3060 - Map

Social Suicide

Click-through for a brief sartorial lesson from two industrious chaps having a blast these days fucking with fine menswear.

Also worth checking out, Cool Hunting profiled the London-based designers back in '06.

Master Of Disguise

We’ve told you about the gift-from-the-gods that is NY Mag’s “Shopamatic” automatic shopping service. Well, check out its new list of sunglasses. Choose “All Men’s,” then your price range, and you’re ready to go.

Hard to beat Urban Outfitter’s Camouflage Wayfarers for $18, but we’ll opt for Cole Haan’s Acetate Large Square’s for $150.

Cole Haan - Madison Ave at 61^st - 212-421-8440 - Map
Cole Haan - Shops at Columbus Circle - 212-823-9420 - Map
Cole Haan - Rockefeller Plaza - 50^th St at 5^th Ave - 212-765-9747 - Map

Sui Generis

Issey Miyake is absolutely one-of-a-kind, but not everything the mad genius peddles is of the wacky “wearable art” variety. At least until the end of the month, check out some very well-made menswear at 40% off. On average, we’re talking $500 for a blazer.

Issey Miyake - 802 Madison Ave between 67th & 68th - 212-439-7822 - Map
Issey Miyake Tribeca - 119 Hudson St at North Moore - 212-226-0100 - Map

Play Ball

• This Saturday and Sunday only, Obedient Sons is taking 75%+ off its oddly inspired spring/summer collection.

Show room - 110 Greene St between Prince & Spring - Map
Sample sale - 70 Greene St between Broome & Spring - 212-334-9400

• And that Opening Ceremony sale we told you about? Today, they upped the anti to 75% off just about everything.

35 Howard St between Broadway & Crosby - 212-219-2688 - Map

Let's Play Something Else

When Crown Affair debuted in ’68, Roger Ebert called it “possibly the most under-plotted, underwritten, over-photographed film of the year. Which is not to say it isn’t great to look at. It is.”

For sure, Ebert was referring specifically to McQueen’s Persol’s.

Softer Than An Ass's Goat

Thursday through Saturday, Christopher Fischer is giving away its full stock of warm- and cold-weather cashmeres. "Pretty much everything in the store is 75% off," said our friendly neighborhood clerk.

Christopher Fischer - 80 Wooster St nr Spring - 212-965-9009 - Map

Be Generous

Agent Provocateur’s summer sale begins tonight at 6 with an intimate preview of selected styles up to 70% off. The choicest sizes and shapes will proceed to disappear until sale’s end in a few weeks.

The video features AP's London store, but lingerie-shopping tips are the same abroad as they are in New York. We think.

Agent Provocateur Soho - 133 Mercer St nr Prince St - 212-965-0229 - Map

Spanish For "Mandals"

From Thursday to the end of July, Spanish shoemaker Camper is taking 10-35% off all shoes and sandals.

Camper - 125 Prince St at Wooster - 212-358-1841 - Map

Spayed

For the next month, Jack Spade is taking 40-50% off select messenger bags.

Also, according to one highly-credible and well-dressed source, Jack no longer plans on having sample sales. Instead, unsold inventory from past seasons will be sold at the store for marked down prices.

Jack Spade - 56 Greene St nr Broome - 212-625-1820 - Map

The Kid Is Alright

This is as conservative as it gets for NY Mag's "Look Book."

Like Rogelio says, "If you got a personality to pull it off anywhere, you can walk from 5th all the way down to Prince."

The Madras

Starting Thursday, A.P.C. is taking 40-50% off their spring/summer collection. Sadly, the sale does not include the brand's highly-coveted raw denim.

Through July 22^nd, get to 131 Mercer St between Prince & Spring - 212-966-9685 - Map

From One Beggar To Another

Gucci Is For Loafers

A salesman at Barney's once assured me that Gucci's never go on sale. Well, they do. And -- particularly at these prices -- they're well worth the investment.

You've got 'til the end of the month, but a saleswoman at Gucci just assured me, "They're going fast."

Gucci - 725 5^th Ave at 56^th -
Get Directions212-826-2600 - Map
Gucci - 840 Madison Ave between 69^th & 70^th -
Get Directions212-717-2619 - Map

Tomorrow's Trends Today

Steve Alan’s new line for Urban Outfitters, Lark & Wolff, wasn’t expected to hit shelves until July, but A Continuous Lean just found the stuff at UO in NoHo... and was impressed.

Urban Outfitters at 628 Broadway between Houston & Bleecker - 212-475-0009 - Map

Two Is Beggar Than One

Wed through next Fri -- 6/18-6/27 -- Generra’s spring collection will be 50 to 60% off. Pretty basic. Grab a cotton blend utility blazer for $150, down from $300.

Asmar Group Showroom - 275 W 39th St nr Seventh Ave, 5th fl - 212-768-2868

Style Season

When The Sartorialist speaks, we listen. And when he publishes photographs, we take a close look. The man -- real name Scott Schuman -- knows his stuff.

This summer, he dares real men to suck it up and brave shorter shorts, lighter blazers, linen scarves, white shoes -- instead of sneaks -- and smarter proportions.

André Will Dress You Up

In late August, expect the first menswear collection from OutKast’s flamboyant tastemaker André 3000. Inspired by collegiate football players of the '30s, the line’s 70-odd pieces include boiled-wool sweaters, double-vent corduroy blazers, high-waisted trousers and striped dress shirts. Barneys, Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s plan to retail the sweaters for $75 and the coats for $2,000.

Early reviews herald the line as smart and well constructed. André's the man, but we’ll believe it when we see it.

Giddy Up

In this city, Ralph Lauren and Polo Ralph Lauren are like cheap electronics -- They're always being marked down somewhere.

Here are the summer essentials at some pretty smart prices:

• Greens stretch cotton shorts down from $125 to $65
• Slim Custom-Fit LS Polo’s down from $80 to $30
• Giza cotton pocket Polo’s down from $145 to $85
• Clayton stripe French/Churchill striped white French shirts down from $400 to $200
• Spring herringbone sport coats down from $800 to $500
• Vintage linen sport coats down from $700 to $430
• Cashmere hooded pullovers down from $525 to $300
• Classic-/slim-fit Bleecker wash jeans down from $165 to $100

RL - 1055 Madison Ave At 80^th - 212-434-8000 (Temporary) - Map
RL - 867 Madison Ave between 71^st & 72^nd - 212-606-2100 - Map
RL SoHo - 379 West Broadway between Spring & Broome - 212-625-1660 - Map
RL Men’s Store - 381 Bleecker St between Perry & Charles - 646-638-0684 - Map

Euro Say What?!

If you like a little polyester in your shirts, Hugo Boss's two flagships are knocking 30-40% off all spring/summer menswear through the end of the month.

• Hugo Boss in the Time Warner Center - 10 Columbus Cir - 212-485-1900 - Map
  
• Hugo by Hugo Boss in Soho - 132 Greene St near Prince - 212-965-9442 - Map